Why Ballater is the perfect village for a cosy Scottish autumn break

Royal Deeside is just for tourists from outside Scotland, right? Seriously wrong. This glorious Highland swathe of Aberdeenshire is far more than just the sum of its enduring, fascinating Royal connections, with the trim village of Ballater up there with anywhere in Scotland for a cosy autumn break – alive with epic scenery-kissed walks, fine local produce, and one of Scotland’s most intriguing railway lines.

Queen Victoria was clearly a fan of Royal Deeside, once gushing: “All seemed to breathe freedom and peace, and to make one forget the world and its sad turmoils.”  Lord Byron joined in, hailing “England’s beauties tame and domestic” compared to mighty Lochnagar, King Charles’ favourite Munro and Deeside’s mountain star. Clasp eyes on Deeside and it’s easy to understand the excitement. Compared to the bare mountains of Wester Ross, Deeside is a landscape painting with all the rich forest shades coloured dramatically in. It’s at its best, of course, in autumn when the leaves burn alive with deep reds, simmering ochre and smouldering oranges. Mountains crag all around and at the heart of it all the surging salmon-rich River Dee reminds you that Mother Nature is very much in charge here. 

There are compelling imprints of man too. Ballater is a trim wee village whose sturdy granite buildings are graced with gift shops, a whisky emporium, and a sweep of the type of proper butchers, bakers and delis we’d all like near our homes. The village green is the community hub. Admire it from a bench then ease inside the hulking Glenmuick Church, with its elegant stained glass windows.

Eking back outside the hills continually beckon and at the end of seemingly every street is a dalliance with the River Dee. Getting in and about the great outdoors is easy as the walking is world-class. Craigendarroch, ‘Ballater’s Hill’, is my favourite wee hike, its oak-tinged slopes a joy to climb in search of a viewpoint that really opens up Ballater. Lochnagar is visible too, sitting often snow-capped in the distance. 

(Image: Robin McKelvie)

Byron joins you with his verse on a board at the summit. Below stately Ballater, a village hewn in granite, with a medieval history that pre-dates the Royal sobriquet and Queen Victoria’s insatiable fascination with Deeside. Ballater’s other hill is Craig Coillich, another easy to conquer peak on the opposite flank. As you descend learn more about the Canadian lumberjacks who came to work here during World War Two. A trio of forest walks also tempt at Cambus o’ May a few miles east. The shortest is just a kilometre around a wee lochan. In autumn, the local woods burst with chanterelles and seasonal colour.  

There are longer walks, too, none longer than the Deeside Way, which ekes from Ballater all the way 41 miles downstream to Deeside’s denouement in Aberdeen’s western suburbs. To tackle a section from Ballater ease as far as you want east then catch a bus back to base. You can cycle it too with Ballater’s Bike Station hiring out bikes. The Deeside Way fittingly begins or ends at Ballater’s Victorian Station, the terminus of the old Deeside Line that was axed by Beeching in 1966 and its highest point at 217m. 

Victoria apparently insisted the railway only got this far as she did not want to be disturbed by noise at Balmoral eight miles away. It’s an impressive wooden phoenix, having been painstakingly rebuilt after a devasting fire in 2015. It is a real timewarp that draws you deep into the world of the Royals with museum exhibits, one of the old Royal carriages, and the fit-for-Royalty Rothesay Rooms café. This is the place for a lazy, decadent afternoon tea.

(Image: Robin McKelvie)

The history of the 43.5-mile Deeside Line that snakes as much as close as it can along its eponymous river is compelling. The first train ran here in 1866 and for a century the Royals trundled to Ballater en route to Balmoral. It swims with tall tales of Russian czars being greeted by 100 Black Watch soldiers, of experimental two coach battery rail cars nicknamed ‘Sputnik’, and that right Royal waiting room you can still see today. 

Those Windsor and Hanoverian connections run deep. As far back as Culloden when the local Farquharson clan chief was spared execution despite his men turning out for Bonnie Prince Charlie at Culloden. Ballater has been on its best behaviour ever since.  Royalty has been spotted out doing a bit of shopping: Princess Anne picking up groceries and the late Prince Phillip in search of the octopus that was the star of his BBQs. Even if you don’t catch the Windsor Charlie nipping out for a pint of milk their trace is inedible thanks to the Royal Warrants stamped proudly on local businesses they have frequented. And that they officially approve of.

(Image: Robin McKelvie)

And what of Balmoral Castle? Yes, you can visit parts of the interior – more of it than ever before for a select few on the expanded guided tours that started this summer – and the grounds are gorgeous, but there are, whisper it, far finer castles in Deeside. The finest of the lot is the dream fortification that is said to have inspired Walt Disney to conjure up his own world-famous version – Craigievar. Craigievar is a vision in pink. The top three floors were added in 1626 and were the stuff of fairytales long before most fairytales were committed to paper. The dreamy turrets and chateaux-esque dormer windows draw the eye, as much in common with Cinderella as they have with the rest of Deeside’s castles. 

Guided tours are free, but turn up early as spaces are limited. Afterwards the grounds – tended to by a local charity – appeal with a hulking Douglas Fir, walled garden and views back to the castle. It’s looking utterly resplendent after the ‘Pink Again’ project to protect the exterior – with enough pink limewash to fill a swimming pool – was finished in spring this year. Whatever you think of the British Royals it’s hard not to be seduced by the epic drama of Deeside. The Royals are planning to hotfoot it back south at the end of September leaving Deeside Royal in name only. 

It’s the ideal time to venture into a world bursting with autumn colour, awash with great places to eat, a proud community, world-class walks and a castle Disney can only dream of. 
 

Further Information from visitscotland.com

(Image: Robin McKelvie)

Bed down in Ballater

Balmoral Arms

Recently superbly upgraded to a five star inn, this lavishly appointed bolthole has traditionally drawn in the hunting, shooting and fishing brigade. Today it has more general appeal, too, steering the right side of tartan twee with welcoming public rooms and swish bedrooms. It’s in a great location just off the village green.
 crerarhotels.com/balmoral-arms

Darroch Learg

This is cosy, well-appointed and trim, just like Ballater. Book a room at this bijou 10-bedroom hotel peering over the golf course to the hills and settle in with Egyptian cotton bedding and Villeroy and Boch fittings. The restaurant is open every night to residents
 darrochlearg.co.uk

No 45 

Recline in this Victorian granite house that dates as far back as 1890. A family-run guest house, the walled garden and its red squirrels tempts on sunny days, with the log fire warming in winter. It’s cosy in a very Royal Deeside way with tartan and stag’s head that stay just the right of twee. Locally baked bread and butcher meat await at breakfast.
 no45.co.uk

(Image: Robin McKelvie)

Foodie Ballater

1852

Local venison and pheasant work their way into a modern Scottish menu that is as delicious as it’s playful. Think Scotch egg spiced with their homemade brown sauce, figs, green leaves and red onion. The excellent ribeye steaks are sourced from a local butcher; the white fish from Peterhead. The hotel group’s roots come across in a sweet South African-tinged sponge pudding and their excellent Rubicon wines. Balmoral Arms’ Ghillies Bar, meanwhile, offers superb local produce too, with hearty local butcher meat burgers.

Strachans of Royal Deeside 

Enjoy a picnic of tasty goodies on a bench on the village green assembled at George Strachan. Your feast comes with a Royal Seal of Approval, proudly displayed above the entrance. Princess Anne is said to be a regular and they deliver to the Royal Family when they are in residence too.
 georgestrachanltd.com

Fish Shop Restaurant and Fishmongers

This is a superb fishmonger that puts a focus on sustainability. Taste the freshness in the 40-cover restaurant. Think plump Shetland mussels, white fish from nearby Peterhead and shellfish from the flotilla of small boats that work Scotland’s inshore waters. 
 fishshopballater.co.uk